Nanyi Valley: The Hidden Tibetan Medicine Wonderland in Southern Tibet

Everyone has a curiosity for the unknown, but true hidden gems are rare. Some places, even when discovered, may not feel as extraordinary as expected. However, deep within the dense forests along the China-India border in Southern Tibet lies a truly unique and mysterious valley—Nanyi Valley in Milin County, Nyingchi.

The Sacred Land of Tibetan Medicine

Known as the “Tibetan Medicine King Valley”, Nanyi Valley is home to lush vegetation, boasting thousands of plant species. According to legend, the revered Tibetan medical pioneer Yutok Yönten Gönpo once gathered herbs, refined elixirs, and taught students here, making it a significant birthplace of Tibetan medicine and healing traditions.

Born in the 8th century into a family of royal physicians in Southern Tibet, Yutok Yönten Gönpo mastered medicine from an early age. His pursuit of knowledge led him to India, Nepal, and China, where he studied under renowned masters and collected invaluable folk remedies. At 45, he dedicated ten years to writing the Four Tantras (Gyüzhi), the cornerstone of Tibetan medicine, often compared to the Yellow Emperor’s Inner Canon in Chinese medicine. For Tibetans, he is revered as the “Sage of Medicine”, much like Zhang Zhongjing in Chinese history.

A Unique Natural Sanctuary

Nanyi Valley’s rich biodiversity is deeply connected to the exceptional natural environment of Southern Tibet. Here, the Himalayas extend eastward before abruptly rising north, forming a funnel-shaped corridor with the Sub-Himalayan Range. This unique topography channels warm, humid air from the Indian Ocean, bringing abundant rainfall and a mild climate. As a result, this region is the only place in Tibet where rice can be cultivated, earning it the title “The Jiangnan of Tibet”—a reference to China’s lush southern lands.

Walking through the valley, you’ll notice delicate, wispy strands of lichen hanging from tree branches, swaying gently in the breeze. This is Usnea, which thrives on oak and pine trees, absorbing their nutrients. Once the host tree’s resources are depleted, it withers and dies, creating the perfect conditions for another prized fungus—matsutake mushrooms—to flourish beneath the fallen logs.

Usnea is extremely sensitive to air quality, disappearing at the slightest pollution, making it a natural bio-indicator of pristine environments. In Nanyi Valley, its presence signifies an untouched ecological haven. Every July, after the monsoon season, locals venture into the forests with woven baskets, collecting these treasured fungi—nature’s hidden delicacy.

The Treasure of the Forest: Matsutake Mushrooms

Thriving in alpine forests above 3,500 meters, matsutake mushrooms are among the world’s most valuable wild medicinal and culinary fungi. Studies suggest they possess anti-cancer properties, further elevating their status. Following the 1945 atomic bombing of Hiroshima, it was reported that matsutake was one of the only surviving multi-cellular organisms, leading the Japanese to revere it as the “sacred fungus”.

In Nyingchi, a kilogram of fresh matsutake sells for around ¥200 (approximately $30), but once exported to Japan, the price soars to over ¥1,000 ($150) per kilogram. In a small restaurant in Nyingchi town, I once tasted stone pot chicken with matsutake—its aroma rich and earthy, its texture smooth like abalone, leaving a lingering umami flavor on the palate.

A Journey Into a Living Paradise

Deeper into the valley, the greenery intensifies, the air turns crisp, and the forest floor bursts with vibrant wildflowers, their subtle fragrances weaving through the air. It’s impossible to resist taking deep breaths, indulging in this natural oxygen bar.

At the end of the gorge lies a breathtaking alpine pasture, encircled by mist-covered mountains. Wisps of clouds drift between the peaks, revealing and concealing the landscape like a moving painting. Horses graze lazily on the grass, adding to the dreamlike scenery of a “heavenly pasture”.

If not for the colorful prayer flags swaying gently in the mountain breeze, it would be hard to believe that this tranquil paradise sits at over 3,000 meters above sea level on the vast Tibetan Plateau.

Nanyi Valley is more than just a hidden wonder—it is a place where nature, history, and culture intertwine, offering an unforgettable journey into the mystical heart of Tibetan medicine and untouched wilderness.

Deep in the Forest: The Lhoba People

Nestled on lush green slopes, wooden houses with deep red roofs are scattered across the landscape, blending harmoniously with the natural beauty. These homes belong to the Lhoba people, China’s smallest ethnic group.

The term “Lhoba”, meaning “southern people” in Tibetan, was given by the Tibetans, as the Lhoba primarily inhabit the southern regions of Tibet. Their customs and traditions differ significantly from those of the Tibetans. They have their own language but no written script, relying mainly on hunting and animal husbandry for their livelihood. Lhoba cuisine includes roasted fish and, surprisingly, rat meat. When men venture out for hunting, they carry long knives and bows, dressed in fur-trimmed hunting gear and wearing animal-skin hats. Lhoba women wear narrow-sleeved, round-collared blouses with tightly wrapped skirts, and their lower legs are bound with cloth. Regardless of gender, they adorn their waists and necks with heavy ornaments. It is easy to imagine that preparing to leave home takes considerable time, unlike the simplicity of Han Chinese attire, where one can just dress and go.

Life of Lhoba People

Up until just a few decades ago, the Lhoba people still lived a primitive tribal lifestyle, practicing slash-and-burn agriculture and using knotted ropes or carved wood to keep records. They followed animistic shamanism, believing that spirits known as “Wuyou” existed everywhere. Livestock raised by families were not meant for consumption but were reserved for sacrificial rituals. When a family held a ceremony, they would slaughter all their livestock in devotion to the spirits.

Lhoba villages traditionally included a “communal house”, where unmarried men and women lived together. During this time, they learned about their traditions and customs under the guidance of elders while also seeking potential spouses.

In 1965, the Chinese government officially recognized the Lhoba people as one of China’s ethnic minorities. Today, fewer than 3,000 Lhoba people live within Chinese-controlled territory, while over 600,000 reside south of the McMahon Line in areas controlled by India. On Chinese maps, southern Tibet, including the region where these Lhoba communities live, is still considered part of China.

In recent years, the government has established settlements for the Lhoba people, building modern houses and encouraging them to adopt agriculture, commerce, and tourism. However, some still prefer to remain in the mountains, preserving their traditional way of life.

At the entrance of a valley stands a majestic tree with a thick, entwined trunk. Upon closer inspection, it is actually two trees fused together, their intertwined base resembling male and female reproductive organs, giving it the name “Yin-Yang Tree”. The Lhoba people regard it as a sacred tree of fertility, believing it ensures the prosperity of their descendants. During festivals, they gather around it, dancing symbolic fertility rituals to pray for thriving families and unbroken lineage. Inspired by the legend, a young couple eagerly posed for a photo with the mystical tree, embracing its ancient blessings.

Deep in the Forest: The Lhoba People

Amidst lush green slopes, clusters of wooden houses with deep red roofs blend harmoniously into the landscape, adding a touch of human warmth to nature’s beauty. These dwellings belong to the Lhoba people, China’s smallest ethnic minority.

The term “Lhoba” is derived from Tibetan, meaning “people of the south,” as they primarily reside in southern Tibet. Unlike Tibetans, the Lhoba have their own distinct customs and language but lack a written script. Traditionally, they have lived by hunting and herding, with a diet that includes roasted fish and even rodents. Lhoba men, dressed in fur-trimmed hunting attire and animal-skin hats, carry long knives and bows when venturing into the wilderness. Women wear fitted short-sleeved blouses and tight tube skirts, with their lower legs wrapped in cloth. Both genders adorn themselves with heavy ornaments around their waists and necks, making personal embellishment a time-consuming daily ritual.

Just a few decades ago, the Lhoba still practiced slash-and-burn agriculture and used knots and carvings to record events, reflecting a tribal lifestyle steeped in animism. They believe in omnipresent spirits called “Wuyou,” to whom they dedicate their livestock in elaborate rituals rather than for sustenance. A unique aspect of their villages is the communal lodge for unmarried young people, where they not only socialize but also learn traditional customs under the guidance of elders before establishing their own families.

In 1965, the Chinese government officially recognized the Lhoba as an ethnic group. Today, fewer than 3,000 Lhoba people live within China’s borders, while over 600,000 reside south of the McMahon Line, in Indian-controlled territory. Although China’s official maps still include these southern regions as part of its sovereign land, the reality on the ground is complex.

In recent years, the government has built settlements for the Lhoba, providing new homes and encouraging them to engage in agriculture, trade, and tourism. However, some still choose to remain in the mountains, preserving their ancestral way of life.

At the entrance of a Lhoba valley, a striking tree stands tall with dense foliage. Upon closer inspection, its base is revealed to be two trees intertwined—one thick and robust, the other slender, resembling male and female forms in union. Known as the “Yin-Yang Tree,” it symbolizes fertility and is deeply revered by the Lhoba. During festivals, they gather around it, performing traditional dances to pray for prosperity and lineage. Intrigued by this legend, a visiting couple eagerly posed for a photo beneath the sacred tree.

Borderland Curiosities

Due to time constraints, we couldn’t venture into a Lhoba village but spotted herders in the distance, occasionally glancing our way. Near the valley entrance, we encountered several Lhoba vendors selling local specialties. Their attire, language, and demeanor bore a strong resemblance to Tibetans, underscoring the cultural overlap.

A peculiar aspect of Tibet’s southeastern map catches the eye—counties such as Cuona, Longzi, Medog, and Zayu are vast, yet their administrative subdivisions are left blank, contrasting sharply with the dense markings elsewhere.

Why the discrepancy? Geographer Shan Zhiqiang addresses this in his book Scenic China, referring to these areas as “blank spaces on the map.” The reason: they lie south of the McMahon Line, under Indian control. For decades, Nanyi Valley, adjacent to this contested boundary, remained a restricted zone. Only in recent years has part of it opened as a tourist destination, yet access remains tightly controlled, requiring prior registration, with foreign visitors strictly prohibited.

As our vehicle navigated through dense forests, we approached a checkpoint near the valley’s mouth. Armed border guards scrutinized documents, requiring us to line up and surrender our IDs before allowing entry.

The McMahon Line traces back to British colonial expansion. Historically, Tibet’s local government paid little attention to its vast southern frontier, leaving it vulnerable to British encroachment through India. In 1913, British officials coaxed the Kashag government’s representatives into signing a secret boundary agreement—without China’s central government’s approval—pushing the border 150 km northward. This new boundary, spanning 1,700 km along the Himalayan watershed, absorbed 90,000 square kilometers of Tibetan territory into British India, an area over twice the size of Taiwan. Among the annexed lands was Tawang, the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso, renowned as Tibet’s “King of Love Songs.”

Successive Chinese governments have never recognized the McMahon Line’s legitimacy, yet it remains a de facto boundary. In the 1962 Sino-Indian War, Chinese forces swiftly reclaimed most of the region but later withdrew for strategic and logistical reasons, returning to the McMahon Line.

In 1987, India officially integrated the disputed region into its Arunachal Pradesh state, encouraging mass migration to solidify its control. Since the 1959 Tibetan Uprising, many Tibetan exiles have settled there, making it a stronghold of the Tibetan exile community.

The Nanyi River: A Borderline Tale

The Nanyi River meanders from India into China before looping back, creating a natural yet politically sensitive boundary. Though not particularly wide, its rapid currents make it perilous. A traveler once attempted to descend a wooden walkway to touch the water, only to be sternly warned by the guide. Not long ago, a tourist accidentally fell in and was swept into Indian territory, triggering diplomatic negotiations before being returned.

Every inch of land along this frontier is fiercely contested. Reports suggest that at night, Indian soldiers have been known to clandestinely move boundary markers several kilometers into Chinese territory, only for Chinese troops to restore them the next day. This silent tug-of-war, though serious, carries a certain absurdity—an unspoken battle of patience and persistence, playing out in the high Himalayas.